| Do you know what the ‘eight great cuisines’ are? Chinese cuisines have typically been divided into ‘Eight Great Cuisines’ 八大菜系 (bā dà cài xì) as a means of simplifying this vast and complex tradition and pinpointing regional characteristics. Here is part 2.  Anhui Cuisine 徽菜 Huī cài Wild mountains characterize the land-locked southeastern province of Anhui. This unkempt terrain has had a profound effect on the food culture of the area. The mountains offer an abundance of wild ingredients and locals have traditionally turned to stone frogs, turtles, river fish and even pangolins for sustenance. Bamboo, mushrooms and wild herbs are used liberally. According to Chinese legend, Anhui is the ancestral home of tofu. The wide availability of tofu has led to the creation of the most exquisite of vegetarian Buddhist cuisine. Plant-based dishes are expertly crafted to look and taste exactly like a meaty centrepiece of roast duck or fish. Zhejiang Cuisine 浙菜 Zhà cài We now move on to the more delicate and refined shores of Zhejiang. This culinary tradition broadly covers the province Zhejiang and the northern part of Fujian province. As with anywhere with a coastline, Zhejiang, and in particular the port city of Ningbo, is known for its fresh seafood. Further inland, in the provincial capital of Hangzhou, meaty dishes such as Dongpo Pork 东坡肉 dongpo rou are the popular choice. In the hills surrounding Hangzhou, one of the most cherished varieties of Chinese green tea, Longjing 龙井茶 Longjing cha, is cultivated. With a bustling commercial port in Ningbo and an ancient trade centre in Hangzhou, this region has historically been relatively wealthy. This in turn has impacted local gastronomy, which is said to be more refined and sophisticated than in other regions. Ningbonese 汤圆 tangyuan originate in this coastal city but are now traditionally eaten all over China during Lantern Festival. Jiangsu Cuisine 苏菜 Sū cài Jiangsu cuisine is also known as Huaiyang Cuisine 淮扬菜 huaiyang cai, which refers to the combined areas around Huai’an and Yangzhou in southern Jiangsu province. Much like the food in neighbouring Zhejiang province, Jiangsu food is renowned for being very sophisticated. It is particularly famous for the elaborate presentation of dishes. Techniques such as brining and braising are typical for this region. Sophisticated knife-skills are a hallmark of Jiangsu chefs, who are required to carve foods into intricate shapes. Besides the seafood deriving from the Yellow Sea to the east, Jiangsu is pocketed with lakes and numerous rivers. Freshwater goods such as water chestnuts, lotus root, water bamboo, and fresh water fish are therefor widely used. On the lower end of the gastronomical spectrum, Yangzhou Fried Rice is a humble dish of rice fried with ham and egg. It’s popular all over China. Hunan Cuisine 湘菜 Xiāng cài Lying further down the Yangtze river to the east of Sichuan province, Hunanese food has much in common with its bold and spicy neighbour. The people of the upper reaches of the Yangtze river basin have a penchant for chilli-laden dishes, and Hunan is no exception. However, there are a few subtle differences that set Hunan apart from Sichuan and Chongqing. A preference for fresh chillies over the dried chillies used more often (but not exclusively) in Sichuan distinguishes Hunanese dishes. Vinegar is a widely used ingredient and takes precedence over the numbing spice of Sichuan. Sichuan pepper is used more sparingly in Hunan. Pickles and preserves are a feature of Hunan cuisine. Chillies lightly pickled in baijiu rice wine liquor, called 剁辣椒 duo lajiao, literally ‘chopped chillies’, are commonly used. This process mellows the chillies slightly and adds a subtle vinegary flavour. Meats such as pork are cured or smoked and vegetables are pickled and fermented. Strong flavours also derive from the liberal use of garlic, ginger, and green onions. |
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